Books

Unbowed (2006) by Wangari Maathai

My Maasai Life: From Suburbia to Savannah (2010) by Robin Wiszowaty

A Grain of Wheat (1967) by Ngugi wa Thiong

It’s Our Turn to Eat (2009) by Michela Wrong

Running with the Kenyans: Passion, Adventure, and the Secrets of the Fastest People on Earth (2012) by Adharanand Finn

Dust (2014) by Yvonne Adhiambo

Movies

African Cats (2011)

Born Free (1966)

Out of Africa (1985)

The Constant Gardener (2005)

The Ghost and the Darkness (1996)

Business hours are typically from 8 a.m. until 5 p.m. It is common for people to work from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m.; break one hour for lunch, then continue working from 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. Many stores are open from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., while some grocery stores are open 24-7. Banks usually operate from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. There are bigger and higher end shopping malls where the shops stay open until 8 p.m.

Kenya is a beautiful country and at one time, it’s economy was rapidly growing. It has always been known for a very high rate of violent and petty crime. One source I reviewed showed Kenya with the 23rd worst crime rate in the world, better than the Dominican Republic and worse than Belarus. In this case, the crime rate of each country was determined, by dividing the total number of reported crimes by the total population, then multiplying the result by 100,000.

Often crime rates are shown with X number of crimes occurring per 100,000 people. Kenya’s crime index was 60.14, compared to the worst Venezuela, which had an index of 83.76. The most common crime in all of Kenya is carjacking, as the assailants are typically looking to commit armed robberies. In 2007, two U.S. citizens were killed and another was injured, during the occurrence of two different carjackings.

Banditry, similar to carjacking, has increased recently due to matatu vans having many passengers. Banditry has also occurred in national parks and reserves.

In the 1970’s, thousands were killed during tribal violence, allowing for the re-election of Daniel arap Moi, but typically fatalities are minimal.

A major issue facing Kenya, and many other African countries as well, is corruption. The Corruption Perceptions Index in 2007 rated Kenya 150th out of 179 countries rated. The score was 2.1 out of 10; 10 being best.

It is also well known that many safari rich countries face poaching problems. I’m going to just mention it but not delve too deeply, as it typically doesn’t affect tourists, unless you possibly were on the border of Uganda or Congo. Moving on to Nairobi and Mombasa now.

I love Nairobi, it’s a great city with tons to see and generally Kenyan people are generous and friendly. That being said, parts of Nairobi are extremely dangerous. Areas such as Jericho, Githurai 45, Kawangware, Eastleigh, Kayole, and Lunga Lunga are to be avoided at all times. Kayole especially, is run by three street gangs, known as the Gaza Boys, Yakuza, and Smarter. The Gaza Boys are believed to partially control a fourth gang called the 42 Brothers gang (I’ve also seen it referred to as 40 Brothers). 42 Brothers is known to operate in the Nairobi Central Business District (CBD), where they openly commit daylight robberies at bus stops and on the streets.

The most dangerous parts of Kayole are Kayole Corner, Masimba, Patanisho and part of Soweto (not that Soweto). I am not trying to scare anyone or deter them from visiting, but Nairobi generally speaking, has high incidence of rape, robbery, and murder. Remember though, you have no reason to be in these more dangerous neighborhoods.

Mombasa has less crime when compared to Nairobi, but some parts are still quite dangerous. The neighborhoods you must stay away from are Kisauni, Majengo, Kikomboni and Changamwe.

Changamwe is a heavy industrial area, with high rise apartment buildings. Similar to Cabrini Green in Chicago when it existed, these types of buildings lend themselves to criminal activity. Old Town contains many historical buildings; the Fort Jesus is located in Old Town. Use caution here and keep your head on a swivel as the local street boys know it’s a tourist area, and drug activity has increased. There were isolated occurrences of muggings in Old Town, but starting in 2019, the police have attempted to clean up Old Town.

Nyali and Bamburi are the safest areas, near the beach, along with an area called Tudor. You can refer to this report from the Kenya Police Service to see the types of crimes and the hot spots in which they occur. It is from 2015 but I have no doubt the breakdown is similar today.

https://www.kenyapolice.go.ke/2015-09-10-06-16-50.html

https://www.kenyapolice.go.ke/2015-09-10-06-16-50.html</span></a></span>

Similar to any other country you may visit, Kenya has a plethora of customs directives and ordinances which must be adhered to, when entering or exiting. When entering the country, one must have at least 6 months remaining before the expiration date on their passport. This is a common requirement. There must also be pages available for stamping. See the section on Visas for specific information and requirements.

The following items may qualify for free import with the limits indicated by persons 18 years and older:

Cigarettes (200).

Cigars (50).

Tobacco (1/2 pound).

Alcoholic beverages (1 bottle).

Perfume (1 pint).

Prohibited

The following items are prohibited at all times.

Game trophies. 

Drugs. 

Fruit. 

Explosives. 

Counterfeit currency. 

Gambling machines. 

Pornographic or obscene literature (books, articles, videos, etc.).

Animal traps. 

Imitation firearms. 

Alcohol and other spirits. 

Precious metals and stones.

Meat and meat products must be declared at customs and will not be permitted entry.

Weapons, including firearms (a Firearm Certificate issued by the Kenyan Firearms Office is required).

Wild flora and fauna (a Plant Import Permit is required). 

Birds and their products (a Sanitary Import Permit issued by the Director of Veterinary Services is required for the import of birds from countries affected by Bird Flu).

Wild birds being imported from countries currently suffering from bird flu will need a sanitary import permit to be issued by the Director of Veterinary Services.Any animals being imported into the country can only travel as cargo. Cats and dogs will need a general good health certificate from the country of origin and an additional certificate less than a month old clearing the pets of Rabies.

Currency

Imported Currency

Kenyan residents may import up to 500,000 Kenyan Shillings to cover expenses upon re-entry into Kenya. Any foreign currencies exceeding USD $10,000 must be declared. Non-residents may import Kenyan Shillings and foreign currencies without restrictions but amounts exceeding USD $10,000 must also be declared.

Exported Currency

Kenyan residents may export up to 500,000 Kenyan Shillings to cover expenses upon re-entry into Kenya. There are no restrictions for Kenyan residents applicable to foreign currencies. Non-residents of Kenya may export local and foreign currency without restrictions. Residents and non-residents must declare amounts equivalent to USD $5,000 or greater. They must also provide documents indicating where the funds originated.

Drinking Laws

Drinking laws in Kenya can be strict and vary depending on location. In Nairobi, the legal drinking age is 18 years old, and bars/clubs are required to close by 11 pm. Drinking in public places, such as parks or beaches, is prohibited, and those found breaking the law may face fines or imprisonment. While alcohol is legal and widely consumed in Kenya, it’s important for tourists and locals alike to drink responsibly and follow the local laws and customs.

Drug Laws

Kenya has had a complex history with drug laws. In the past, drug use was largely ignored by the government, but in recent years, there has been a push for stricter regulations. The Narcotics, Drugs and Psychotropic Substances Control Act of 1994 is the primary legislation regulating drug use, and it imposes severe penalties for offenses such as drug trafficking. However, critics argue that these laws disproportionately affect low-income communities and do little to address the root causes of drug abuse.

Embassies represent the interests of their country and are often located in vibrant metropolitan areas. Kenya is no different, with a number of embassies located in the capital city of Nairobi. The most important embassies in Kenya include the United States embassy, located on United Nations Avenue, and the British High Commission on Upper Hill Road. Additionally, the embassies of China, Germany and France are located in Gigiri, a suburb of Nairobi.

United States Embassy, United Nations Ave, Gigiri, Nairobi, Kenya.

British High Commission, Upper Hill Road, Upper Hill, Nairobi, Kenya.

Embassy of China, Lenana Rd, Kilimani, Nairobi, Kenya.

High Commission of India, Jeevan Bharati Building, Harambee Ave, Nairobi, Kenya.

Embassy of Japan, Mara Rd, Upper Hill, Nairobi, Kenya.

Embassy of Germany, Ludwig Krapf House, Riverside Drive, Nairobi, Kenya.

Embassy of France, Peponi Rd, Westlands, Nairobi, Kenya.

Embassy of Russia, Limuru Rd, Gigiri, Nairobi, Kenya.

Embassy of South Africa, 3rd Floor, ABC Place, Waiyaki Way, Westlands, Nairobi, Kenya.

Embassy of Canada, Delta Towers, Waiyaki Way, Westlands, Nairobi, Kenya.

Kenyan culture offers a number of delicious dishes. These are some of the favorites of the Kenyan people.

Kenyan Stew

Kenyan stew can include different meats; beef, goat and chicken are common. Kenyan stew might also include a few vegetable ingredients such as carrots, peppers, peas, or potatoes. The sauce is typically created from a tomato base with onion, salt and pepper. It also includes the essential mchuzi mix.

Nyama choma

Also known as roasted meat. Beef and goat are two common forms of nyama choma, but chicken (kuku choma) and fish (samaki choma) are also utilized. Fat and the grizzle from the meat is the choice part of the animal, and is often consumed with a quick dip into a pile of salt for extra flavoring. It is also served as a fried meat variation.

Matoke

A dish originating from Uganda, although it is popular in Kenya as well. Plantains are cooked in a pot with oil, tomatoes, onions, garlic, chilies, meat, and lemon juice. The meat is typically optional. The bananas are cooked until they become soft; the result is a delicious dish that is excellent to eat with rice, ugali, or a chapati.

Samosas

Another Indian food turned Kenyan favorite are samosas. Samosas are small triangular pockets of spiced meat or vegetables put in a pastry wrapper and deep fried to a golden brown. I do love samosas. One of my favorite things in Kenya. If you ever fly Kenya Airways (they are a Sky Team/Delta partner), they serve samosas on board. These snacks are available everywhere from restaurants to Nairobi street food vendors.

Ugali

The most common Kenyan food staple. It is usually made from cornmeal that is added to boiling water and heated until it turns into a paste. Ugali has the consistency of a grainy dough and the heaviness of a brick. For Kenyans, ugali along with a small amount of cooked vegetables or saucy stew is a normal meal. I don’t find it particularly appetizing but the average salary in Nairobi is only $300 a month USD and far less in other parts.

Githeri

It is not too complicated. It is a Kenyan dish made from boiled beans, corn, and possibly mixed in vegetables. The combination of Githeri is filling and nutritious. It can be complimented with salt, pepper, chilies, and even a chapati!

Kenya has a wide variety of grocery stores and markets. The best is probably Carrefour, a French retail company, which operates 12, 225 stores in 30 countries. Carrefour is your typical, large superstore, like a Walmart or Tesco. It sells food, groceries, phones, and beauty supplies.

There is also a comprehensive, general merchandise chainstore called Game, operated under the public retail subsidiary Massmart. Massmart is headquartered in Sandton, South Africa, and provides Game stores with locations in Kenya, South Africa, Botswana, Zambia, Uganda, Ghana, and others. Walmart holds 52.4% stock ownership in Massmart.

Additionally, there are markets such as Chandarana, Quickmart, and Naivas Limited. 

There are a number of public holidays in Kenya.

New Year Day * January 1

May Day * May 1

Madaraka (Independence Day) * June 1

Mashujaa * October 20

Jamhuri * December 12

Christmas Day * December 25

Boxing Day * December 26

Holy Friday * Date varies

Easter * Date varies

Easter Monday * Date varies

Eid-al-fitr (Idd-ul-fitr)* Date varies

Nairobi

Kenyatta National Hospital, Hospital, Rd., Upperhill, Nairobi, Kenya, +254 20 2726300.

This is a public teaching hospital for the University of Nairobi. It is the top medical facility in Kenya.

Aga Khan University Hospital, 3rd Parklands Avenue, Limuru Road, Nairobi, Kenya, +254 20 366 2000.

Aga Khan University Hospital is a private hospital, so it is quite expensive. It is also a teaching hospital with staff who do cutting edge research. It can be considered 1B where Kenyatta National Hospital is 1A.

Mombasa

Mombasa Hospital, Off Mama Ngina Drive, next to Treasury Square, Mombasa, Kenya, +254 041 2312191.

Aga Khan Hospital, Vanga Road, P.O Box 83013, 80100 Mombasa, Kenya, +254722205110.

When I was in Kenya with the Marine Corps, part of our humanitarian mission was re-building maternity wards at the rural hospitals. I visited the healthcare facilities in places like Malindi, Garissa, and Asa on multiple occasions. I advise you to only seek treatment at the hospitals I have listed above. 

Kenya registered the highest internet penetration rate in Africa for 2020. According to the Internet World Stats (IWS), 87.2 percent of the country’s population was connected to the internet. During quarter one of the 2020/2021 financial year (running July to Sept 2020), the country had 43.45 million internet/data subscriptions. This was an increase of 4.8 percent from the previous quarter.

The continent of Africa, with a population of 1.3 billion people, recorded an internet penetration rate of 47.1%. Additionally, the penetration rate was listed at 46.2 percent for Rwanda, 40.4 percent for Uganda, 38.7 percent for Tanzania, 17.8 percent for Ethiopia,10.7 percent for Somalia and 9.7 percent for Burundi. Western Sahara noted the lowest internet penetration rate at 4.7 percent. South Sudan was the second lowest with 7.9 percent, while Eritrea was third with an 8.3 percent penetration rate, while having a population of 3.5 million people.

It is not surprising that Rwanda is one of the highest in Africa. Rwanda, and specifically the city of Kigali, are rapidly growing. Kenya has long utilized a mobile payment system called M-Pesa. M-Pesa was launched in October 2005 by the two largest cell phone providers in Kenya, Safaricom and Vodaphone. Safaricom and Vodacom are not classified as deposit taking institutions (i.e. traditional banks), but M-Pesa customers are able to withdraw and deposit funds from airtime re-sellers and retail outlets.

The service allows Kenyans to transfer money to other users, pay bills, purchase airtime, and even save money in a virtual account. M-Pesa is also available in Tanzania, South Africa, India, and Romania.

Kenya is extremely conservative and not friendly or open towards people of the LGBTQ community. It does not permit same-sex marriages and officially bans them under its constitution since 2010. Most Kenyan people do not support gay rights or gay marriage. According to the Pew Global Attitudes Project in 2020, only 14% of Kenyans polled said homosexuality should be accepted by society, up from 1% in 2001. The majority of Kenyans (83%) responded that homosexuality should not be accepted by society. Article 45 specifically authorizes opposite sex marriage but is silent about same-sex marriage. “Every adult has the right to marry a person of the opposite sex, based on the free consent of the parties”.

While traveling to Kenya, please be aware of articles 162 and 165.

Article 162 delineates “carnal knowledge against the order of nature” with up to 14 years in prison (specifically referring to sodomy).

Article 163 states any person who attempts to commit any of the offences specified in section 162 is guilty of a felony and is liable to imprisonment for seven years.

Article 165 states “indecent practices between males” makes one liable for up to five years in prison. Discretion is strongly advised and suggested.

Kenya utilizes the shilling as their default currency, which is divided into 100 cents. Today, the exchange rate with the United States dollar is 152.87 shillings but obviously that is for today. I only listed this as a general idea for the value of the U.S. dollar while vacation planning. A six-pack can cost anywhere from 999.00 shillings to 1599.00 shillings.

Kenya has long suffered issues of terrorism, dating back to 1975 when two bomb blasts went off in Nairobi. A socialist politician named JM (Josiah Mwangi) Kariuki also was abducted outside the Hilton on March 2. His body was later found burned and abandoned south of Nairobi. In 1976, Jomo Kenyatta authorized the Israeli Special Forces to refuel at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (NBO) on their way to Entebbe Airfield, Uganda to conduct a rescue mission of a hijacked plane.

The Israelis required this assistance to reach Uganda due to the distance. Kenya allowing its facilities to be used to help, greatly angered Islamic extremists. In 1980, a Jewish owned hotel in Nairobi called The Norfolk was bombed, killing twenty people and wounding eighty-seven. The bombing was believed by Kenyan security forces to be a direct result of Operation Entebbe. Years later in 1998, there was a catastrophic bombing at the United States Embassy in Nairobi, which killed 213 people and wounded 4000.

There was a simultaneous attack at the U.S. Embassy in Dar es Salaam, which killed 12 people and wounded another 85. These attacks were the specific catalyst that saw the U.S government place Usama Bin Laden on the most wanted list. I don’t want to discuss every terrorist event in Kenya, but the final two I’ll mention are notable.

On September 21, 2013, militants associated with Al-Shabaab attacked the popular and upscale Westgate shopping mall in Nairobi. It resulted in a lengthy standoff with Kenyan police and the military; it also ended with at least sixty-seven people killed.

In January 2019, terrorists attacked the DusitD2 hotel in Nairobi killing twenty-one people and wounding others. I was at work (when I was with Viking Cruises) watching it unfold; I would fly to Nairobi though eight months later to pick up a safari to Maasai Mara. When I arrived at the Intercontinental Nairobi, the entire front of the hotel had been gated with a sally port. They open one end of the sally port, let the taxi drive in, and close that gate. The vehicle and the occupants are locked inside a stout metal box until security opens the other end.

I mention this information related to terrorism because it must be included to complete my due diligence. Additionally, I want future travelers to be aware of what has occurred from time to time, so you can take the appropriate precautions. The reality though is I have traveled through Kenya multiple times alone, and never at any time felt unsafe. I want to re-state, the Kenyan people are some of the friendliest, kindest I have met.

Kenya Time Zone UTC +3

Kenya offers multiple types of visas for tourism. You may apply for an eVisa online or get a visa on arrival. There are three types of eVisas offered through the online system. The first is a single visit visa giving access to only Kenya ($50.00 USD) for 90 days.

There is also a transit visa giving access to Kenya for only 72 hours ($21.00 USD), you do not need a transit visa though if you remain inside the airport. Thirdly, a service visa is issued to Diplomatic and Official passport holders, issued at no cost. Arriving passengers may also get the visa on arrival; either the single visit Kenya only visa ($50.00) or they may pay for the East Africa Tourism Visa which covers Kenya, Uganda, and Rwanda ($100.00).

The following information is correct as of today, August 30, 2021. African countries are known for sudden changes with no warning so please be prepared.

The following countries cannot obtain a visa through the eVisa system or the Visa on Arrival at listed airports: Afghanistan, Armenia, Azerbaijan, Cameroon, Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (DPRK/ North Korea), Eritrea, Iraq, Kosovo, Lebanon, Libya, Mali, Palestine, Senegal, Somalia, Syria, Tajikistan.

It is worth noting that Kenya has a diverse climate that varies greatly depending on the region. The coastal areas are typically hot and humid year-round, while the highland regions experience cooler temperatures and occasional rainfall. It is important for visitors to pack accordingly and be prepared for the different climates they may encounter during their travels in Kenya.

Additionally, typically Kenya experiences two rainy seasons, one from March to May and another from October to December, which can impact travel plans and road conditions. During these times, visitors should come prepared with rain gear and be cautious of potential flooding. In the dry season, temperatures can reach upwards of 85 degrees Fahrenheit during the day, so it is important to stay hydrated and protect oneself from the sun.

Generally during the winter or the high season for safaeris, it is warm during the day but can be quite cold in the mornings, especially during open vehicle game drives.